The execution of a perfect golf swing; relaxation, style and rhythm is the ideal metaphor for my weeklong journey through Louisiana and the Audubon Golf Trail.
Sixteen courses, stretching from the borders of Arkansas, Texas and Mississippi, have received the designation of Trail Member for their dedication and high standards in managing their environment and preserving the historic nature of the game of golf.
Created in 2001 to enhance the State’s designation as ‘The Sportsman’s Paradise’ and with the aspiration of becoming America’s most diverse golf destination, the Audubon Golf Trail designers such as Pete Dye, Hal Sutton, Arnold Palmer, Robert Trent Jones Sr and David Toms became creators of this vision.
My adventure began in the exciting city of New Orleans. A fermentation of French, Spanish, African, German, Irish and many other nationalities together with Native American residents creates a cultural paella of food, music, architecture, art and language unsurpassed anywhere in the world.
The Golf Club of Audubon Park, a city run course, was a wonderful way to kick-off my week of golf. Ranked by Golf Week as one of the top 50 municipal courses, this executive style golf course plays to 4220 yards. Centuries-old oak trees are standard-bearers from the time the club opened in 1898. The course features four lagoons, and well-managed greens make this par 62 layout challenging yet a pleasure to play. Lunch in the Clubhouse Café was very reasonably priced and delicious. I wanted to try everything!
The Course is located along the St. Charles Streetcar Line, the oldest running streetcar line in the world. Earlier in the day I took the tram from downtown to Walnut Street, close to Tulane University, and a short walk later I arrived at this beautiful course.
Along the rail line, the streets that run laterally to the tracks are the route of the famous Mardi Gras Parade. Viewing the stately mansions along the streets one imagines the southern grace and lifestyle that embodied these historic homes. The ancient oak trees with their descending streams of Spanish Moss have captured the errant tosses of multi-coloured necklaces, permanent reminders of past enthusiastic celebrations.
My home the first evening was the iconic Bourbon Orleans Hotel, a hotel of culture and history and a few ghosts, or so they say! Located a block from the famous Bourbon Street, it’s convenient to walkways along the shores of the Mississippi, galleries, nightlife and dining to suit every palate. Dinner that evening was at the renowned Dickie Brennan’s Tableau on Jackson Square, renowned for French-Creole cuisine. My entrée of Oysters Vol au Vent were followed by BBQ Shrimp and Grits, both truly outstanding.
After that amazing dinner, I took a stroll along the cobbled streets of the French Quarter at sunset and encountered a cornucopia of personalities and an eccentricity of facades of shops that seem to never close. Reverberations of jazz, zydeco and blues added to the surrealism of the night.
At the Port of Call on Esplanade Street, ‘this 50 year old dive’ (as described by the bar on their website) has people lining up for music, burgers and the infamous ‘Monsoon’ beverage. If the lines are a little too long, saunter down to Pat O’Brien’s Bar where the ‘Hurricane’ is the beverage to be remembered. These sustenance’s of Liquidity feature dark, amber or light rum, passion fruit or apple juice and are served in a ‘cup’ where I could stockpile a dozen golf balls.
Proudly having managed my inebriants, I set off to enjoy a perfect breakfast of fresh fruits, warm eggs that were downy in their texture, and freshly baked croissants. As I sat overlooking the historical city from the Hotel’s third level balcony, sounds of delivery bicycle bells and heavy cleaning equipment reverberated in the air as New Orleans began to replenish its persona from the previous night revelries.
Thanks to a special invitation, following check out I headed off to play in the Pro-Am of the PGA’s Zurich Classic at TPC Louisiana. Less than twenty minutes from Bourbon Street, it’s the crown jewel of the Audubon Golf Trail. Designed by Pete Dye in conjunction with Steve Elkington and Louisiana-born Kelly Gibson, the course features wide fairways, risk of water on many of the holes and greens that are truly superb.
It was my lucky day. I was partnered with seven-time European tour winner Gonzalo Fernández-Castaño, a consummate professional. As our group watched his effortless drive, it was my turn next to play. I attempted to emulate his swing and as I watched my ball enter the water hazard on the left that I was told ‘shouldn’t come into play, Fernández-Castaño gave me a reassuring smile, as if to say ‘it happens to all of us’. A second poor tee shot and I finally began to play ‘my game’. On a long par four I was putting for birdie from 30 feet away. He asked where I saw the break and I indicated one foot. He, without saying anything, pointed the head of his putter three feet outside. I followed his advice and proudly walked off with my first birdie.
My next day began before the sun made an appearance, when it was time to board the bus for an 8am tee time at the Santa Maria Golf Club close to the State Capital, and culturally rich city, of Baton Rouge.
The course personifies the Audubon spirit as this Robert Trent Jones Sr-designed facility features two waterways and 15 lakes that are strategically placed to capture any errant golf ball. Wildlife is abundant and even the encroachment of million dollar homes does not distract from the overall feeling of a natural setting. Grand trees and diverse coloured grasses showcase nature on every hole. I played well that day, avoiding any trouble and any three putts. I can see why Golf Digest continually recognizes Santa Maria as one of the nations finest municipal courses. It deserves this status and is a pleasure to play.
Following my five over round at Santa Maria I was buoyant with expectation to experience PGA champion David Tom’s Carter Plantation Golf Club, a fifty minute drive along I-12 East of Baton Rouge in Springfield.
Nature is at it’s finest as the course plays through three distinct landscapes with oak groves, cypress wetlands and upland forests. Sounds of exotic birds, fragrances of wild flowers and southern pine are accentuated in the warm southern air. On every hole as I would plan my shot, the views of water and bunkers seemed ever present as the course features eighty-six bunkers and eleven liquid attractions.
Back on the road following my round, I headed north for two hours to the Steve Smyers-designed course of Tamahka Trails Golf Club. Earlier in my career, I had the opportunity to play the Royal Harare Club in Zimbabwe, another Steve Smyers-designed course. That experience was so exceptional it left me hoping to experience another one of his layouts. Tamahka was that opportunity. His design influence came from the legendary course architects of the 20’s and 30’s. Chart Hills Golf Club in County Kent, in association with Sir Nick Faldo, was a course that was named ‘Best New Course in the British Isles’ when it opened in 1995 and is a further example of his ability to capture the essence of the natural details of any region.
Tamahka Trails Golf Club is a resort course developed, owned and operated by the Tunica-Biloxi Indian Tribe whose desire was to create a championship course that would complement their successful Paragon Casino and Resort. This is a resort worth the stay. My room was spacious, beautifully appointed and overlooked a grand foyer which housed a small canal throughout the lobby and in which small alligators, with gentle tail movements, could be seen navigating its waters.
Tamahka Trails can be difficult as the greens are quick and negotiating the subtle breaks led to three putts on the first few holes. Believe in your stroke and the trueness of the surface will reward you. I really enjoyed starting each nine with a par 5 and the sod bunkers always made me think of Links golf. The resort is investing in new fairway and green-side bunkers which will improve playability and add to the esthetics. It was an enjoyable round of golf and the hospitality was impressive.
On the road again, and heading north east for another two hours towards Monroe, I now had only 24 hours before my flight home. I was early to rise in order to play The Black Bear Golf Club at Poverty Point. Reputedly one of the best public courses in the State, this Bechtol-Russell design opened in 2006 and immediately became a part of the Audubon Golf Trail.
Set atop Macon Ridge with multiple elevation changes, native grass, wooded creeks and a diversity of wildlife, this 7,200-yard championship course became Golf Digest’s America’s Best in 2007 and one of GolfWeek’s Best Courses for 2009. The course is always updating the experience for golfers and was a great course to finish my week.
Louisiana is relaxation, celebration, history and diversity wrapped up around sixteen unique golf courses along the Audubon Golf Trail. Go soon and experience it for yourself.
